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Wednesday 19 October 2011

Fair pay for a fair days work

I was intending on writing a blog post today about a lovely Shabby chic shop that I found locally...however that will have to wait as a new topic has been brought to my attention today and I felt the overwhelming need to share my views on the subject.  I am not normally one for this kind of post, I tend to lean towards the light and easy to read but when I feel strongly about something it has to be said.   Many of the people that are likely to read this are in the handmade industry and others are small holders and those trying to tread a little lighter on the earth.  I will be the first to admit that I have had my time of being consumer driven and a bit of a spend thrift, in my youth I rarely cared about where my clothes were made as long as they were the right price. The concept of sweat shops was foreign to me, I just wanted clothes, shoes and plenty of them.   I don't even want to contemplate the amount of clothes and 'things' that I really wanted and have ended up at the charity shop or worse in the bin. 

Over the years I have by necessity become very thrifty and in turn very conscious of the items I do buy and their origin.  I make what I can and use recycled items to do it where possible.  When I purchase something I take into account where the item is made, what it is made of and how long it will last.  Price although a factor is last on the list and I will save for something that I
 really need and occasionally want.  I have a small wardrobe in terms of clothes and I tend to lean towards good quality, British made items that are durable...and before you say it, most of them are from charity shops with a few key pieces purchased new and made to last.  But we are not here to discuss my wardrobe!  In my crafting I use recycled fabric, locally produced wools and the occasional piece of new fabric although this is mainly for clothing.  It is a bit of a bug bear that the origin of new fabric and where it is made is not easy to find out.
When I make handmade items to sell I try and price them to include all my costs and to give me something approaching minimum wage.  I know this is often not the case for many crafters, they may only be making to fund their hobby and can therefore price lower than someone who is trying to make a living.   I suppose I could use cheaper wool in my knitted items possibly acrylic but I want to support local business and for that matter British wools.  The wool I use is certainly not the cheapest but it comes from farmers who share a sustainable ethos and farm rare breed sheep which produce fantastic thick wool perfect for those of us who often work outside in cold months.   Knitting is difficult to price realistically because a handmade item takes time which can never be truly reflected in the final cost to the consumer.   I often hear people saying that handmade knitted items are too expensive.  Take gloves for instance,  I have seen some from high street chains for £35 and some for £6 and many priced in between.  I doubt the high street gloves are made in this country and very much doubt from British wool.  Knitting for me is more a hobby than some of my other making and it will never make me rich but it is not made in a sweat shop.  There are many people that will pay a fair price for an item such as this and if all of the handmade industry work together to price accurately and raise awareness of handmade we can change peoples thinking.   This all comes from the perspective of someone who does not have much money to play with and would prefer now to have less and make every purchase count both financially and ethically.   In recent decades we have become a throw away society where it is easier to buy something again than look after it properly and repair it, I repair things and those that are beyond repair find themselves made into something else.  I am noticing recently on my courses that there is a greater interest in recycling clothes into new ones and am trying to do my bit when teaching sewing to encourage people to find fabric in more unusual places and to think differently about old clothes.    I don't imagine for a moment that we can turn around the fortunes of companies like Primark by purchasing ethically and with thought, but maybe we can help those working in the handmade industry in this country.  Excuse the length of this post and if you have made to here I am very appreciative!  I would love any comments on this topic.

7 comments:

  1. Very interesting. I was only looking at the price of wool today - it's shocking, and a huge mark-up. I used to live in Turkey, where many of our brands are made. I could choose anything in the shop, and it was never more than £2 a ball for a luxury yarn. I refuse to buy it here, as I only like the real expensive ones.

    I rarely buy anything new, and am the self confessed car boot queen. I buy good makes for next to nothing, and often find my fabric there too.

    After a rare visit to Primark, I was shocked at how cheap things were- ridiculously so. It's no wonder people have no idea of the value of handmade items.

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  2. I couldn't agree more. My biggest bug bear is underpriced craft with bad quality materials which degrades hard working crafters who are highly skilled & believe in giving people the best. It makes us look like we're ripping people off when we actually don't pay ourselves minimum wage. Our craft is am art & we deserve to recognised for it. Cruel remarks like 'I could make that for cheaper' 'there's nothing to that' & 'you've a cheek to charge that' are unessesary & generally not true.

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  3. Great blog post Sarah! I absolutely agree. Many people don't want to pay big bucks for something handmade when, in their eyes, they can buy something similar for a fraction of the cost in the high street. Of course they don't appreciate how much work can go into even a simple looking handmade piece.

    On the other hand, those people that do appreciate well-made, beautifully crafted items which have been made lovingly from locally sourced resources are the ones who will be more likely to pay the 'fair' price for those items.

    But it's hard to make something and have a large number of people just think it's overly expensive when they don't appreciate the work that's gone in. I always feel guilty if I price something which truly reflects how much work has gone in and I do often end up pricing things more at the 'cover my costs' end of the scale instead.

    It's a tricky one!

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  4. It is indeed unfortunate that the UK and a lot of the rest of the world have become a throw away society. I think that the recession has made a difference because people can't afford to just throw things away.

    Because of this, crafts have become more fashionable, but people want to make their own because it is cheaper. Better for craft teachers, but worse for craft producers.

    Hopefully, as the recession ends, the public will appreciate well made craft items, but have more money to buy them rather than make them.

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  5. Thank you for your comments, it means a lot that I am not the only person who thinks this. I think now my rant is out there I can calm down a bit.

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  6. Over the last few years I have tried to buy ethical clothes which have a higher price tag but better quality. Unfortunately now I have become a student and this means I can't afford them anymore, although that does mean the carboot clothing rail (a fairly new discovery) can be my new highstreet store.

    I am learning to craft and crochet myself and would love to always buy the expensive wools but unfortunately they are also out of my price range.

    I totally support crafters earning a decent wage (even above minimum wage). I can't afford it at the moment but hopefully one day all my clothes will be a. second hand b. local or c. ethically produced.

    Michelle

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  7. I support your views wholeheartedly! There's such a trade off made by the typical consumer, who will readily sacrifice quality over price - even if the eventual durability of the product means it would have been more cost-effective to buy a better item at a higher price. There's an education that's missing about this - and the mainstream media tend to exacerbate this problem rather than alleviate it.

    Independent makers have the highest operating costs, because it's often difficult for them to marry the resources with their individual business ethic as well as battling the inevitable economies of scale of mass production. Sourcing locally, keeping their carbon footprint down, using sustainable materials, promoting the use of traditional materials... the list goes on. But it IS important that individual/niche makers have the opportunity to provide something which is so lacking on the high street (however large or small) - good quality, well-considered products.

    Where am I going with this?! To start investing in some of the incredible 'manufacturing' this country lacks, I wish that makers had access to funding support to enable them to make these types of ventures more viable. I know.... I should ask for the moon on a stick, whilst I'm at it. But, without individual crafters and makers, of whatever genre, we will continue to lose some amazing heritage.

    I'll shut up now ;D

    x

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